I am not used to this forum and a new comer to travel trailers. We recently bought A camplite that is new 21rbs i am along the way of setting up double batteries, Inverter and Midnite KID solar with 4x100W flex panels. We have connected a system/wiring diagram of this the thing I’m presently setting up and will also be powering up within the day that is next 2.I would appreciate any feedback in the design to make sure an effective and SECURE system before We switch on!
Here’s a hyperlink into the diagram.
Reviews
Thank you for feedback.
Correct the 2000W inverter is large and is sized for operating microwave oven OR expresso device for some mins each.Yes, the dimensions of the inverter may draw a lot of when doing sitting idle and it is built to turn on/off effortlessly, Thanks!
All breakers and cables sizes are to spec. This is true of energy center, solar and inverter. Wire lengths are short runs in every full situations.i.e. all 1/0 cable lengths that are positive as much as 0 В· Share on Twitter
1.2KW down grid system; 2 strings of 2ea 305W 60 cellular panels on a redneck ground mount; MNPV3 combiner feeds a MN Vintage 150 located 100′ away; 12V 460AH FLA battery pack bank abilities a cabin-wide 12V DC system along with a Cotek 700W PSW inverter; Honda EU2000i and IOTA 55A charger bridge cloudy times and a Champion 3800W generator for quick period, energy appliances that are hungry.
Hi Mike,Thanks, you nailed my primary problem.
The Midnite Solar KID possesses DC GFP that I have perhaps maybe not shown because I’m nevertheless hoping to get some definitive answers about just how to hookup battery pack negative (framework connect or not) and ground (framework connect or otherwise not). The factory setup had a solitary battery pack negative attached to the framework nothing else. The energy center had all DC negative leads linked to a typical coach club that had been linked to the framework in addition to AC ground. AC basic and ground aren’t fused (by code bond that is just that is done at coast energy panel). Therefore my question is do I disconnect the battery pack negative from framework and then leave grounds to framework? Or float ground or something different? I’ll be setting up the GFP that connects between battery negative and ground and basically disconnects the PV+ during fault today. As shown now it will trip while you state.
Right now I’m tilting towards disconnecting trailer framework from battery pack negative.
1.2KW down grid system; 2 strings of 2ea 305W 60 cellular panels for a redneck ground mount; MNPV3 combiner feeds a MN Vintage 150 located 100′ away; 12V 460AH FLA battery bank capabilities a cabin-wide 12V DC system also a Cotek 700W PSW inverter; Honda EU2000i and IOTA 55A charger bridge cloudy times and a Champion 3800W generator for quick extent, energy appliances that are hungry.
Fundamentally all grounds get to frame. That features AC ground from coast and all sorts of framework grounds of elements. Battery negative normally linked to framework. We included the DC-GPF from Midnite Solar within the last diagram (see express link). We setup tested today and every thing worked fine. Wire length came up in a couple of reviews i had off their sources. Observe that the trip that is”round duration of the 1/0 cable is lower than 8 foot. from battery pack terminals to inverter and straight back.
One small modification we will make is always to your battery pack order brides bank grounding into the framework ground. I will suggest that you move it through the negative battery pack post into the typical negative bus on the other hand regarding the shunt.
With automobile lots, many utilize the framework because the return for energy (DC lighting, automotive radio, and such). For which you have actually the framework to battery pack ground now will “miss” any loads that occur to return present through their framework ground connection(s).
Battery pack bank is little for a 2,000 Watt @ 12 VDC inverter. Nominally, I would be suggesting a 500 Watt optimum AC that is continuous load. (2,000 watts * 1/0.85 AC inverter eff * 1/10.5 volt battery pack cutoff=) 224 Amp nominal flow that is current maximum AC inverter rating.
1/0 cable is NEC ranked for
125 to 170 amps (in conduit)—And I would be suggesting a 1.25 Wiring+Breaker derating (224 amps * 1.25 derating= if you were going to really run the inverter near 2,000 watts for longer periods of times (more than a few minutes),)
280 Amp minimum rated Branch Circuit DC present.
If you are using the less conservative Marine Wiring standards, 1/0 is perfect for up to 285 Amps
That you do not show breakers/fuses for many of this wiring making the bus that is positive for many associated with other DC loads (hitch plug, cooling fan)–You need protection for all those connections too (fuses/breakers ranked to measurements of wiring).